Dci-products RafterVent User Manual download pdf

March/April 2007

CoastalContractor

In the Ocean State — where wind-swept

rains aren’t restricted to nor’easters, tropi-

cal storms, and hurricanes — I count on

a vented rain screen coupled with care-

fully detailed flashings to keep water out

of walls.

A rain screen is a cladding system with

a vent space (or a series of vent channels)

between the back side of the cladding and

the weather-resistive barrier. Openings

along the top and bottom of the vent

space let air flow freely. This vent space

provides a channel for any water that gets

past the cladding surface to drain out, and

the air flowing through this space carries

away moisture vapor that dries off the

back side of the siding. In both instances,

the vent space reduces the chance of

water and moisture vapor being driven

into the wall cavity by wind or sunshine.

Installing any cladding as a vented rain

screen is the best way to make the

cladding last. However, it’s easier to do

with lap sidings than with shingles. Lap

siding, such as cedar clapboard and fiber-

cement planks, easily bridges air channels

between vertical furring strips nailed over

studs. But a vented rain screen with side-

wall shingles requires horizontal furring,

which presents some complications.

RAIN-SCREEN OPTIONS

I’ve built cedar-shingle rain-screen sidings

in three ways. The differences mostly

involve the material that forms the vent

space, but this inevitably affects other

details as well.

Vented furring strips. The first time I

built a cedar-shingle vented rain screen, I

laid shingles over a series of back-kerfed

1x3 furring strips (Figure 1). These back

by Mike Guertin

Best-Practice

Wall Shingles

A rain screen offers the ultimate defense against

water intrusion, provided you get the details right

FIGURE 1. The author’s first experiences with venting shingles relied on

back-kerfed 1x3 furring strips. These back kerfs are essential for allowing

water to drain out and air to flow between the horizontal strips, but cutting

the kerfs with a dado blade in a radial arm saw proved too labor intensive.

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Summary of Contents

Page 1 - Wall Shingles

1March/April 2007~CoastalContractorIIn the Ocean State — where wind-sweptrains aren’t restricted to nor’easters, tropi-cal storms, and hurricanes — I

Page 2

2kerfs are essential for allowing drainageand airflow between the horizontal strips,but they take a considerable amount ofcutting and time: I mounted

Page 3

3wrapped walls, and the matrix compressesa little when the shingles are installed ontop, leaving an effective 1/4-inch airspace. The corrugations shou

Page 4

4Best-PracticeWall ShinglesMarch/April 2007~CoastalContractormust be planned to account for the extrathickness of the rain-screen “sandwich.” I addres

Page 5

5part is starting the first two courses at thebottom; but once they are secured, therest of the corner shingles go fine.Corner boards. Ideally, corner

Page 6 - 4-inch to

6spacer mats, I install blocking as a basefor the band boards, just like the cornerboards (Figure 5, page 5).Regardless of the material used to cre-at

Page 7

7builders don’t like this solution because itrequires extension jambs to pad the win-dow and door jambs flush with drywall onthe inside. But if you’re

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Dci-products RafterVent User Manual

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